Motorcycle Modification

Kamis, 03 Juli 2008

Related Article<1993 Suzuki GSX-R750 - Shout Outs>

1993 Suzuki GSX-R750 - Shout Outs

Busted!
Word is out that you all did an article about how urban bikers are not interested in AMA racing or twisting the throttle at the racetrack ("The Color Barrier," Sept. 2006, page 14). If this is true, you are really not in touch! First off, one of my club members (The Blast Squad-Atlanta) is tearing up the WERA circuit. Secondly, most of the "urban" bikers (and "black" bikers is all that "urban" really means) I know are in the house on Sunday afternoon watching AMA and MotoGP races on TV before we hit the streets later that night. My friends and I will hit the track any time you invite us, and most of us spend our time trying to get as much track time in as possible. Just so you know, I am a girl, and I learned to dragrace from Rickey Gadson, but I will hit the roadrace track with you and any of your people who think they can hang any time! Yes, that is a challenge. You need to talk to the whole population of urban bikers, not just the ones you meet outside your hotel room, before you go making broad generalizations. Check the pic and holla if you can hang! Yeah, that's an '06 GSX-R1000!
Petey
Atlanta, Georgia
Busted, Part Two
I need to make a comment about a bike you featured in your July 2006 issue. On page 92 you feature a 1993 GSX-R750 that, admittedly, is damn nice. There is a huge flaw in your article, though-in 1993, the GSX-R750 was water-cooled, not oil-cooled, as you mention in the article. This is a fairly big detail, especially for those of us die-hard, oil-cooled GSX-R fanatics. If you're going to write an article about old-school GSX-Rs, you really need to get your facts straight.
Erik Torell
Parts Unknown
P.S. I own (and ride) the following bikes: 1986 GSX-R750, 1988 GSX-R1100, 1992 GSX-R750, 1992 GSX-R7/11 (750 frame with a 1216cc motor), 1993 GSX-R frame with a 1991 771cc motor, and a 2001 SV650 track bike.
Reader's Rides
Your mag absolutely kicks ass! I look forward to each new issue because nothing comes close to your quality. Even your Web site's layout is very user friendly, unlike some of the other mag sites. I have attached a pic of my rocket, and I hope you could put it in your mag sometime soon. It's a 1997 YZF1000R with a full Hindle exhaust, Wiseco piston kit, and a paint job done by Ottawa Valley Custom Paint. Again, thanks for putting out such a wicked mag.
Warren Foster
Ottawa, Canada
Got a good thing going here, boyz. Love the magazine, fine publishing skills. I'd like to give a shout out to all the troops in service-thanks for your dedication-and the families of the NYFD. Gone, but never forgotten. Here's a picture of my '03 R1. Starting to get into the stunt world, so she's got some battle scars; she's also got a Yosh exhaust, hlins stabilizer, and some EFI mods. Now it just needs a 12 o'clock bar and an engine cage! By the way, it's run on jet fuel-I'll be flying in to see you all at Super Streetbike next week. Wish me luck.
William Martin
Milan, Michigan
I would like to have my GSX-R1000 shown in your mag. It has been a dream to have a nice bike, and it took me a long time to get this one built (and I'm not half-finished-got much more planned)
Darryl Willis
Tulsa, Oklahoma
My name is Chris Merrifield, and I have a 2006 Hayabusa with a 300 rear tire on RC Components wheels, extended swingarm, nitrous, and all the other billet goodies from Roaring Toyz in Florida. I would love the opportunity to see it in your magazine.
Chris Merrifield
Austin, Texas
Thought I would send a picture of my wife and my mistress, too, a 2006 Hayabusa! I honestly don't know which I like riding more. I am a lucky man.
Tom Sanford
Monterey, California
First, I would like to thank all you guys at SSB for producing the best mag out there. I read it front to back every month, and I have gotten a lot of ideas from the mag and would like to give you guys some credit for my '04 GSX-R1000. It's been lowered and loves to go fast. It would make me happy to see a pic of my bike in this mag just to show the people out there that we can represent in CANADA, too!
Ryan Barrieau
Sussex, New Brunswick, Canada
I just picked up the June issue and wanted to give you guys a huge thanks for a great mag. Right now I am laid up from knee surgery. I won't be able to ride all season, and I am going bike crazy! I included a couple of shots of my F4i. I built her from the frame up piece by piece in my basement. I even repaired the tank and painted her myself (not in the basement, though). If you have the space, I would love to see my CBR in print. She's got a Scorpion pipe, PC-III, undertail, and too much more to list.
John McQuay
Evansville, Indiana
Way back in 1982 I seized my Kawi triple for the third time at 100 mph. I had had it with two-strokes, so I walked into the local Toronto Suzuki shop and said, "What's the fastest thing you have?" He showed me an 1100 Katana. Truthfully, I wasn't sure what to make of it. Man! That is radical! After looking at it for a few minutes, I bought it. Rode the wheels off it for a few years, then had to sell it.
By the late '90s I was getting hungry for another bike, and I found this 1983 Katana 1100 basketcase and decided to breathe new life into it. After all, this was the original head-turnin' neck stretcher, and I wanted to do it right. The list of mods is extensive, from the frame bracing and custom-fabbed Bandit 1200 swingarm to the Gixxer fork and wheels and all the motor work: 1166cc kit, 36mm RS flat-slides, port/polished head, WEB cams with slotted cam gears, HD clutch basket, high-flow oil pump with Earl's oil cooler and top-end oiling kit to top her off to keep her from squeakin'... This beast may not have the power of the present pole-sitters, but when you twist the wick on this land shark, she eats up the real estate at an alarming rate. She's a classic with big teeth, and I sure get a lot of attention when I cruise around town from the old guys and the kids who think it's a new bike.
Rob Wilton
Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
This is a picture of my '05 Hayabusa I got from my mom for Valentine's Day (Thanks, Mom!). It wasn't long before the guys at Rick's Cycles got their hands on her! It was stretched, lowered, fitted with an undertail, custom grips, chopper mirrors, billet top triple clamp, Double Bubble windscreen, frame sliders, HMF carbon slip-ons, and more. Future plans include a Power Commander and an N.O.S. system. I would really appreciate seeing my bike in the greatest bike mag! Keep up the good work!
Ramon Gonzalez
Lawrence, Massachusetts• • More>>> >>>... •

Honda CBR600RR - The Green Goblin
Where's The Pumpkin Bomb Launcher?

Spider-Man's nemesis the Green Goblin experimented with chemistry in a vain attempt to increase both his intelligence and strength-instead, his experiments just drove him insane. We think that Tony Sesto of Sesto Customs in Long Beach, California, might be partially insane too for choosing a Honda CBR600RR-a bike with very little off-the-shelf aftermarket custom parts available-as the basis for his super streetbike. "When thinking about what kind of bike to build, I realized that nobody has built a custom 600 to the standards that most modern customs are built to," Sesto explains. First on his list was the single-sided swingarm with a 240 tire, fabricated in collaboration by Aaron Land from Bike Buddy Pro and the team of Eddie McCoy and Ron Roth at Eye Candy Cycle Designs. The front half of the swingarm is from the original Honda Unit Pro-Link arm, hacked off and welded to the extension and hub unit from a 2005 Triumph Speed Triple, stretching out the CBR's wheelbase six inches in the process. Eye Candy Cycle Designs then fabricated the upper fork covers and sliders, triple tree cover, rear wheel center cap, swingarm pivot cover, and the dummy rotor up front, in addition to taking care of all the chroming. The wheels are one-offs by Paul Deneen of Deneen Designs, while a Performance Machine front master cylinder and bar switches (originally designed for Harley-Davidsons) were modified to fit the Honda bars set off with RIS Designs grips. Finishing the chassis off is a Hi-Lo Rider air suspension from Bike Buddy Pro that lets Sesto raise and lower the ass end of the bike six inches at the push of a remote-control button. Killer paint is the work of Cory St. Clair of 3rd Element Designs, a name well known in custom car circles who is now introducing his talents to the world of custom bikes. The basecoat is a candy green color-shifting paint with a water drop effect and murals of what Sesto calls "orks" covering the windscreen and fuel tank, along with realistic flames mixed with a glow-in-the-dark additive for an unmatched after-dark effect. Like the namesake Green Goblin, Sesto has created one hawt Honda that walks the line between genius and insanity.
Anger ManagementA few months back in our November 2006 issue ("Hell's Tailgunner," page 66), we featured a pair of wild streetfighters from Wisconsin built by Jim Haucke of Angry Guy Streetfighters (www.angryguysf.com) and Dave Begotka of Motocyco (www.begotka.com). Turns out that those two weren't the only wild ones that Haucke and Begotka had up their sleeves, as evidenced by this nicely turned out trio they were showing off at Road America in Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin, during this past summer's AMA Superbike National. The flamed GSX-R1000 is Begotka's personal ride, named "The Dragon." Cool stuff includes the "Psycho" tailsection made by Begotka (andavailable for sale through his Web site) that utilizes the stock GSX-R taillight turned upside down, a one-off front fender mounted motocross-style to the lower triple clamp and bunches of funky, Begotka-built bits like frame sliders, frame-mounted turn signals, axle sliders, handguards and the headlight mount carrying twin projection-beam fog lamps. Crazy paint, incorporating realistic flames and a dragon mural on the tank, is the work of Begotka's talented wife, Sandra. Speaking of crazy paint, the first thing you notice on Haucke's '94 Honda CBR900RR streetfighter is the sick eyeball-motif graphics covering the powdercoated frame and custom bodywork consisting of a stock tank and radically upswept "Cop Killer" tailsection (complete with custom underseat exhaust by Haucke and "punishing" saddle) that was sourced from Bimbo's Fighters in Germany. Said wild paint is the work of Bjorn Hansen at Kuma Auto Art in Manitowoc, Wisconsin, who also laid down the color on Haucke's other CBR900RR, a 1993 model with a Scorpion mural on the tank. The tank is actually the only piece of stock bodywork that remains on the '93 bike-the rest is just more German goodness from Bimbo's (and now available in the U.S. through Angry Guy), including the "Execute" tailsection, "Formicula" headlight surround, "666 Special" front fender and "Zorn" bellypan.
Tripod Ninja"Catalog customs are not-and will not ever be-a part of my business plan. If it's not hand-built, it's not custom." So says Geo from Geo's Custom Cycles in Monmouth County, New Jersey (www.geos-cc.com), the builder behind this outrageous trike based on a 1998 Kawasaki ZX-6R. Far from a bolt-on creation, this trike required that Geo custom fabricate the rear swingarm/axle using the front half of the ZX-6R swingarm mated with a rear section amputated from a Kawasaki KFX400 quad. Once the swingarm was fabbed up, Geo had to design and build the adapter plate that allowed him to fuse the KFX400 hubs with new studs with the proper spacing to accommodate the 17-inch Foose rims and tires that put the power to the ground. But that doesn't look like a 1998 Ninja, you might be saying to yourself, and you would be right. The upper fairing is actually off of a 2005 Kawasaki ZZR600, and the blinker holes were plastic welded shut for that clean, smooth look. Underneath the fairing, the motor features a milled cylinder head, competition valve job, adjustable cam sprockets, degreed cams, undercut transmission and a shift kit-all to help break the two car tires loose. On the exhaust end, Hindle head pipes and a custom, flame-shaped outlet exit spent gases, while the paint is a mix of House of Kolor pearls, candies and clear to make the bike shine as bright as the sun. "I chose to build a bike that nothing is made for," Geo says. "That's the test for a 'true' custom bike builder." We give Geo a passing grade. "
The Hulk!Is this what happens when you make a 2000 Kawasaki ZX-9R angry? Inspired by his favorite childhood hero, The Incredible Hulk, Clint Grolla reworked his 2000 Kawasaki ZX-9R into this sweet custom that can be appreciated by young and old alike in his hometown of Springfield, Illinois. The lifelike depiction of the green meanie is the creation of Lucy's Airbrush in Decatur, Illinois, and cleverly incorporates the Ninja's original green and purple hues that are also Kawi's corporate colors, including the purple powdercoated engine case covers and purple anodized Pro Bolt bolt kit from Tastynuts.com. Speaking of hulking, Grolla's ride rolls on a 300mm Metzeler ME 880 rear tire mounted on an RC Components Gladiator rim pinched by a McIntosh 11-inch-over extended swingarm that was installed by EPC Racing in Dayton, Ohio. Beneath the bodywork is a mostly stock 134-hp ZX-9R motor with a Leo Vince high-mount carbon-fiber exhaust and, for when 134 hp isn't enough, a nitrous system with a green-painted bottle buried in the swingarm. "I love to see the kids' reactions when they see it and ask to have their pictures taken next to it at bike shows."• • More>>> >>>... •

Senin, 30 Juni 2008

Wheelies Explained

By Dan Jackson

The wheelie--the granddaddy of all street freestyle stunts--can be both the simplest and the most complex trick in a professional stunt rider's routine. While a standard sit-down wheelie is almost elementary in execution, the more incredible variations--skyscraping High Chairs, 12s, creeping No-Handers--leave us mortals tugging our chins and wondering, "How'd they do that?"
Never ones to tug (chin) in vain, Super Streetbike asked Team XMX (www.teamxmx.com) ringleader "Crazy Dan" Jackson to ,give us a peek behind the curtain and expose the mechanics of his gravity-defying wheel stands. An accomplished freestyle motocrosser and street freestyle prodigy (his 2002 CBR954RR was his first-ever streetbike), Crazy Dan is just the man for this job. The 25-year-old Jackson came out of nowhere (Kansas City, if you're looking for it on a map) to finish third in the '02 XSBA Street Freestyle Championship, and at press time was leading the '03 series. In addition, Jackson has posted wins at numerous non-XSBA-sanctioned stunt competitions, and also recently launched his own stunting school (www.stunterschool.com, see page 16 for more details), further cementing his credentials. Read on as Jackson, in his own words, lays bare the secrets of mono-wheel mayhem.

Basic Sit-Down

Wheelies Explained
How'd They Do That?

"Sit-downs are the easiest wheelies to do, but the hardest to explain. There are so many different ways to wheelie a sportbike, and some methods work better than others depending on the rider and machine. I'll explain what I do--but keep in mind, other riders might be lifting it up differently.
"There are two kinds of wheelies: power wheelies and clutched wheelies. A power wheelie uses the bike's motor to get the front wheel up. You get the revs up near the bike's torque peak and goose the throttle to snap the front end up. On a 1000cc bike this is easy--just snap the throttle at around 6000 rpm and it wheelies. A smaller bike such as a 600 needs a little help. On these, I'll roll the rpm up higher, then chop the gas and snap it on again. Chopping the throttle will cause the front end to dive for an instant, and the rebounding of the fork will help the front end come up when you snap the throttle back on. On a 600, you almost have to open the throttle all the way to the stop to get the front end up under power. A literbike takes much less throttle--snap my CBR954RR to the stop and you'll be on your ass instantly. That's why I don't like power wheelies--you're dealing with a lot of power, and the possibility of looping the bike is greater.
"I prefer clutched wheelies; the front comes up quicker and you're lower in the rev range when you bring the front end up, so you're not going as fast and you've got more time to find the balance point before you hit the rev limiter. For a clutched wheelie, I'll pull the clutch in, just enough to cause the rpm to rise up to the torque peak, and then let it out quickly. I'm pulling the clutch in just slightly, just into the friction zone. The revs rise for a split second, and then I drop the clutch--don't ease it out--and back off the throttle incrementally as the front end comes up. The higher the front wheel goes the less throttle is needed to keep it up. Backing off keeps the bike from going over.
"Either way, on power or with the clutch, I keep my arms stiff, squeeze the tank with my legs and always cover the rear brake. If things get ugly, you just tap the rear brake and both wheels are back on the ground. If you're looking straight ahead, when you can't see over the bike you know you're getting close to the balance point."
Standup
"Same as a sit-down, you can do this one either on power or on the clutch. I'll also bounce the bike a bit to help it up. Bouncing down on the handlebars preloads the front suspension. The energy of the fork releasing, combined with the throttle input, pops the wheel up. I'll stand up first, then lean forward and bounce it by pushing down on my arms, causing the fork to compress. When the fork comes back up I'm on the gas (not as much as a sit down--standups take less power to lift up!) and pulling on the handlebars to bring the bike up.
"As the front wheel comes up, I'll drop my butt back a little bit to help it along. I bend my knees when I'm pulling the bike up, and once it gets up to about 10 o'clock I'll straighten my legs and lean back. With a standup you can hold the throttle in one spot and use your body language to control the wheelie.
"Because body language makes it so easy to balance a standup, it's easy to ride one through the gears. To shift during a wheelie, I'll blip the throttle just a touch right before the shift. When you fan the clutch to shift, it kills power to the wheelie, and if you don't blip the throttle a touch this can cause you to drop the front wheel. So I'll blip it, causing the front wheel to float a bit higher for a split second, then shift as quickly as possible. Preloading the shifter and just nudging the clutch lever will help you shift faster. I generally shift as early as possible. If you shift when you're hard on the gas or your revs are up, you're more likely to miss the shift. The sooner you shift, the less likely you are to miss the gear. But not too soon, so you don't bog the revs! Incidentally, these shifting rules are the same for a sit-down wheelie."
Can Can
"To do a Can Can, I start just like I would [with] a regular standup wheelie, and as soon as I get the wheelie to where I'm comfortable, I take my right leg off and stick it between the tank and my left leg. You have to be careful getting your foot through there. There's not much room between your leg and the tank, so you have to know where you're going without looking and get it through there quickly.
"During a Can Can most of your body weight is to the left side of the bike, so you need to counterweight yourself by rocking your shoulders over to the right side of the bike. It's all about keeping your balance centered. Whenever I'm moving around, I make sure to do it slowly, so I can feel which way it's going to go. Moving around really fast will cause the bike to get out of control.
"If I ever do get out of control, or to where I feel like I'm making a mistake, I just let off the gas or tap the rear brake and put the front down--it doesn't really matter where I'm standing on the bike, once both wheels are on the ground I'm safe."
High Chair
"For this one I start by sitting on the gas tank with both legs out to the side. The easiest and safest way is to kick out one leg at a time; that way you still have at least one hand on the bars. But with cruise control you can do both legs at once, which looks better in competition.
"Starting out with High Chairs, it's a good thing to dig your ankles to grip onto the headlight so you don't go flying off the back. Denting in the tank here really helps too because it gives you a flat surface to sit on. I always clutch any tank wheelies up. High Chairs (or anything where you are sitting on the tank) take more throttle because you have more weight over the front of the bike. But because your weight is so far forward, and because you're using more throttle, you have to watch and be smooth on the clutch so you don't get wheelspin. Leaning back helps, too, and so does blipping the gas to bounce the bike a little bit.
"[For] my High Chairs, I don't even touch my feet to the fairing at all; I just try to stick my legs up in the air as high as I can, and all that touches is my ass on the tank."
Frog
"Frog wheelies are a lot like High Chairs--I get up on the tank first, then clutch it up. Just like the High Chair, you have to be smooth pulling it up because you've still got all your weight over the front. Plus, you don't really have anything to hold onto, so when you drop the clutch your body weight wants to go backward. That's going to make you wanna hold onto the bars even more tightly, which can cause you to twist the throttle more than you should. So to avoid unwanted throttle inputs, you have to grip tighter with your left arm than your right.
"The hardest part with a Frog wheelie is putting it down. When you set the wheel down it throws all your weight forward, and when you're standing up on the tank and just holding on to the handlebars, there's not much to keep you from just flipping over the front. Not for amateurs, this trick."
No-Hander
"For a Standup No-Hander, you're standing with your foot on the 12 bar and you've got your idle turned up, so you're basically using your foot to balance the bike and riding the wheelie with no hands, controlling the height of the front tire with your body and also with the rear brake.
"Sit-down No-Handers are a bit harder because you don't have the leverage of your foot out on the bar to balance the bike. Again, I'm doing this with the idle turned up. I get the bike up to about 11 o'clock, then let go of the bars and just lean back and control the front tire height with a combination of body lean and rear brake. To keep myself on the bike, I'll squeeze the tank with my knees and sit back against the passenger seat. If I work my body position just right, I don't even have to use the rear brake."
12 O'Clock
"A 12 O'clock is all about brake control. You bring it up in first gear, and you have to get on the gas really hard to get the wheel up as high as you can, and then use your rear brake to stop the bike at 12 o'clock. Once you get it up, instead of using the throttle to control the height of [the] front wheel, you're actually using the rear brake. You're on the gas more than normal, and using the brake to keep from going over.
"Twelves require a lot of body language, using your shoulders to rock the bike from side to side to keep it from tipping over sideways. I use my knees and legs like outriggers to balance the bike, and mostly hold myself on with my arms.
"On the scrape, a lot of people think you just fall back and ride the bar, but the bike still wants to sway from side to side. If you want to 'park' a 12 O'clock, you use the rear brake to slow down--but not too much. If you use too much, it's just going to cause the bike to fall down."
Circle
"Circles and other slow wheelies are the hardest to learn. I'm still learning Circles, in fact. These are all about trusting your tires and getting into a groove. Once you get into a groove, it's all brake and throttle control.
"There are three different ways to do Circles. Some guys ride on the regular pegs; some with the left foot on the left passenger peg; or some with the left foot on the 12 bar. I use the second method, with my left foot on the passenger peg. I haven't done too much with my foot on the bar, but I think there is an advantage because you've got more leverage on the back of the bike. You can use your body weight more to control the height of the tire.
"To initiate a Circle I clutch it up with my feet already in position, bringing it up like a 12 O'clock, using the rear brake. For Circles (and No-Handers, too) I'll turn the idle up to 3500 rpm, so I don't really have to worry about the gas. But with the idle up that high, and your bike so high, if you don't use the rear brake you'll loop out.
"Once you get the bike up there, you initiate the turn by bending the inside knee and shifting body weight into the wheelie. You want to keep looking into the wheelie because you go where you look. You keep it going by blipping the throttle and tapping the brake. The gas makes it run wide and the brake tightens the Circle up--the same concepts as with cornering on a roadracing track."• • More>>> >>>... •

How To: Install a Trac Dynamics extended swingarm

1: In order to remove the stock crush sleeve, tap out one of the bearings.
The biggest challenge to going fast on a high-horsepower motorcycle like the Hayabusa is putting power to the ground. Get on the gas hard and most times either the rear wheel spins up or you loft the front, both of which slow you down. Lowering the bike to keep the center of gravity as close to the ground as possible only goes so far to combat this problem. A longer swingarm may be just the ticket for your hard-launch dreams. Aftermarket companies such as Trac Dynamics sell swingarms in varying lengths (from stock to as much as 14 inches over, most adjustable), with prices starting at $995.
Swapping out the OE swinger for a six-inch stretched version is a fairly easy endeavor. Since you'll be taking off the rear suspension, you'll need a jack or a bike lift to support the bike's rear end after you remove the rear stand. A tie-down (or two) thrown over a rafter will act as a safety when attached to the back end. Remove the rear wheel. Removing the exhaust system's canisters and S-bends isn't necessary, but life is so much easier with them out of the way. Now focus your attention on the shock and linkage. Unbolt the bottom of the shock from the rocker. Remove the bolt securing the bottom of the tie rods. Rest the back of the swingarm on the floor while you extricate the pivot from the frame.

2: Some mechanics like to use red Loctite as a lubricant when installing new bearings. When it dries, the bearings will stay put.
Although Trac Dynamics' swingarm ships with its own bearings, you'll need to extract at least one of the OE bearings to access the crush sleeve that resides inside the pivot between the two bearings. Remember, the moment you take that first whack at the bearing race, the bearing is junk. Never reuse bearings--buy new ones if your new swingarm doesn't already come with them. While you can go Neanderthal on the old bearing to get it out, heating the pivot with a propane torch makes the job of tapping out the bearing much easier. Once the pivot is heated, most mechanics are able to get the bearings out with a drift (or a flathead screwdriver) and a hammer--all without breaking a sweat. Insert the drift into the side of the swingarm pivot opposite from the bearing you want to press out. If you can't catch the lip of the inner race because of the internal spacer, a flathead screwdriver may help. With the drift on the inner race, give the bearing a whack or two until it moves slightly. Now switch to the other side of the bearing and repeat. Essentially, you are walking the bearing out of the hub. When the bearing pops out, set the crush sleeve aside for later.
Installing a new bearing is pretty simple. You can use a bearing driver set or a socket that has the same outer diameter as the bearing's outer race. If you're unable to find a suitable socket, you can always use the old bearing. The idea is to never tap directly on the bearing itself. To ease locating the bearing in the pivot, some mechanics will place the bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours. Others simply apply a little lubricant to the bearing. Tap the bearing until it is in the pivot flush with the outer edge. Slip the crush sleeve into the pivot and install the other bearing. Press the linkage bearings into place to give the tie rods something to pivot on.

3: Once you've installed the bearings, the new swingarm pops in the same way the old one came out. Now would be a good time to add lowering links.
Next, pack the bearings by pressing grease into the space between the rollers with your finger. Keep packing in the lube until you're sure the space behind the rollers is full. Press on the grease seals you took off the old swinger. Take the swingarm and slide it into the frame. Loosely assemble all the bolts for the swingarm pivot, tie rods and linkage. Torque the bolts to spec. Set the chain adjusters to hold the axle blocks in the appropriate position. Before you mount the wheel, you'll probably have to trim (or remove) the rear fender if your bike isn't already equipped with a fender eliminator. Now, mount the wheel.
Since the swingarm is significantly longer, you'll need to custom-cut your chain. Wrap the chain around the sprockets and mark where the ends meet. If you plan to dragrace in a class with a maximum wheelbase, set the wheel in position for that length and cut the chain one link shorter than the chain measures out. Street riders can simply cut the chain at the most convenient link. Don't forget to install a longer brake line before you practice your launches.

4: To ease setup, measure and place the axle blocks before you mount the wheel. Note the clever block design: The front hole is for the first half of the six-inch adjustment range, while the rearward hole moves the wheel way back.
•Time: 1-2 hours
•Cost: $995
•Tools: Wrenches, sockets, torque wrench, front and rear stand, bike jack, hammer, drift, blowtorch, red thread lock, bearing grease, chain cutter/rivet tool
•Parts: Aftermarket swingarm, swingarm bearings (if required), longer rear brake line, longer chain
•Tip: Set your wheelbase before cutting the new chain
•Performance gain: Better traction for launches
•Complementary modifications: Install lowering links, lower front end and air shifter
•Contact information: Trac Dynamics, (661) 295-1956, www.tracdynamics.com

8050" />

5: For bikes like the Hayabusa, removing the countershaft cover can be a real pain. By using a piece of welding wire, you can simply pull the new chain around the countershaft sprocket without removing the cover.
6: If you plan on using an air shifter, Trac Dynamics can build an air tank right into the swingarm. Cool, eh?
7: Here's what a Hayabusa looks like with the extended swingarm set three inches over stock and the rear lowered four inch• • More>>> >>>... •

Motorcycle Modification

Kamis, 03 Juli 2008

Related Article<1993 Suzuki GSX-R750 - Shout Outs>

Related Article

Related Article <2007 Kawasaki ZX6R - Gear Bag>

Senin, 30 Juni 2008

Wheelies Explained

How To: Install a Trac Dynamics extended swingarm

About Me

Blog Archive

Favorite